Coffee production in Tanzania
The history of coffee production in Tanzania is full of ups and downs. In January 2018, the government banned all direct export licenses, revoked trading licenses, and forbade private investors from providing extension services and credit. Small farmers were forced to form Agricultural Marketing Cooperative Societies (AMCOS) and sell their coffee via the old auction system. This abrupt change aimed to keep farmers more involved in the sale process and reduce the influence of private companies, but it backfired, causing chaos in the industry.
For decades, Tanzanian coffee had been sold at auction in the town of Moshi every Thursday. Larger estates could bypass the system by holding direct exporting licences. The 2018 ban changed everything, forcing smallholders to form AMCOS as required by the new regulations and process their coffee without proper infrastructure. Estates, with more resources, started buying their own coffee at auction to maintain traceability, but smallholders couldn't compete. This led to broken partnerships and the withdrawal of private exporters and roasters from Tanzania, leaving farmers scrambling for buyers.
Fleeing buyers and other concerns
The sudden regulatory changes left Tanzanian coffee farmers in a tough spot. With private companies pulling out, farmers lost access to low-interest loans and deals on inputs. Then, futures prices plummeted and many farmers fell into debt. The government relaxed the bans in January 2019, but the damage was done. Years of hard work were lost, and many private companies hesitated to return. Despite this, some estates in the North and farmer groups in the South managed to survive and adapt.
Farmers in Tanzania, like Vera Stücker at Ngila Estate, have shown remarkable resilience. She continues to invest in her staff, improving working conditions, housing, water supplies, and wages. However, the challenges are significant. Farmers need more financial support and better infrastructure to process their coffee. The industry's survival depends on younger generations getting involved and understanding coffee. There is also a need to adapt to climate change, which has introduced new threats and erratic rainfall patterns.
The “wildest” coffee on earth
Tanzanian coffee is known for its bright acidity and fruity flavours, similar to Kenyan coffee. Traditionally, most of it is Fully Washed, but estates like Ngila are experimenting with new processing methods. Vera produces a Yellow or Golden Honey, which involves pulping the cherries without water and drying them on raised beds. She’s also experimenting with Naturals and barrel fermentations. These methods, though labour-intensive, result in much sweeter and fruitier flavours. The estate's commitment to sustainable practices, like avoiding pesticides, enhances the coffee's quality and environmental impact.
Tanzania's coffee-growing regions, like the Ngorongoro Highlands, are home to rich wildlife and stunning landscapes. Coffee trees thrive in volcanic soil, coexisting with elephants, wild boars, and baboons. This unique environment adds to the appeal of Tanzanian coffee, often referred to as the "wildest" on earth. Despite the challenges, Tanzanian estates have consistently produced good coffee, making them a reliable source of specialty and traceable coffee. The combination of unique flavours, sustainable practices, and the country's natural beauty makes Tanzanian coffee well worth exploring.